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But for the Grape and Grain pub, in Crystal Palace, London, the phrase has a different significance.

Last month, a crop of hops was planted in the garden, which – along with hops grown by 80 other local residents – will be used to brew a "community beer".

By 1654 a small open-air fruit-and-vegetable market had developed on the south side of the fashionable square.

Gradually, both the market and the surrounding area fell into disrepute, as taverns, theatres, coffee-houses and brothels opened up.

"We sold around 100 plants on our hop collection day," says Rachel de Thample of the Crystal Palace Transition Town group, which is organising the project.

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